The Next Gen Takes on Britishness: A Fashion Dialogue

Reimagining British Culture Through Design

What does it mean to be British in today's world? This was the challenging question posed to budding fashion designers at Central Saint Martins, University of The Arts London, as part of Not In London, a multifaceted project celebrating the English cultural capital. Rather than penning essays, these creative minds responded with clothing, translating their unique perspectives on Britishness into custom-designed graphics.

Guided by industry expert Ellis Gilbert, founder of the London-based label Talk Nice, the students delved into the nuances of British culture, producing a vibrant array of designs. From these, three winners emerged – Avaro Azkue, Macy Grimshaw, and Luca Fabry – chosen by Gilbert and Highsnobiety’s design team. Their winning designs will be released as part of the Not In London project.

Avaro Azkue: Juxtaposing Tradition and the Everyday

Avaro Azkue Telleria, driven by a rebellious spirit ("Being contrary to my mum" was his motivation for entering the fashion world), offers a witty commentary on Britishness. He playfully contrasts the delicate imagery of porcelain figurines, representing a romanticized past, with the ubiquitous Tesco shopping bag, a symbol of modern British life.

“The idea was to poke fun at the idealized and often glorified idea of Britishness," Azkue explains. His design captures the humor in the clash between these two worlds.

Looking towards the future, Azkue envisions a fashion industry with "Less ego, more compassion." A timely sentiment in an often-frenetic industry.

Macy Grimshaw: Navigating a Third-Culture Identity

As a self-described "third-culture kid," Macy Grimshaw's design explores the complexities of belonging. "‘I'm not *that* British’ is a phrase I often find myself saying," she admits, reflecting on her mixed heritage and upbringing in Hong Kong.

Grimshaw's design ingeniously blends contrasting elements: the formal etiquette of British dining juxtaposed with the casual use of chopsticks, all while incorporating iconic symbols of London life like fish and chips, jammy dodgers, and even a mention of Queen Camilla. Inspired by trompe-l'œil art, her design is a vibrant still life capturing the essence of London streets.

Grimshaw also critiques the cyclical nature of fashion and its lack of sustainability. "Why create something that's already been done?" she challenges. She celebrates, however, the growing sense of community within the industry, particularly online, and sees it as a space for self-expression.

Luca Fabry: Finding Unity in the Urban Rush

For Luca Fabry, inspiration struck during his daily commute. Likening the bustling London Underground to a marathon, he saw a connection between the city's fast-paced energy and the diverse individuals who share this daily experience.

His design, inspired by vintage marathon t-shirts, represents the unifying experience of the Tube, where people from all walks of life move together in the same direction. This simple yet recognizable design marks Fabry's first foray into graphics and print.

Expressing concern about the "fast and cheap" nature of modern fashion, Fabry aspires to bring back an appreciation for craftsmanship and construction. He sees potential in exploring unconventional production methods that still work within the existing industrial system.